DIY Kayak Cart: Build Your Own for Under $35 2025
Last summer, I stood in the sporting goods store staring at a $200 kayak cart and thought, "There has to be a better way."
After spending $45 and two hours in my garage, I built a cart that's carried my 70-pound kayak over sand, gravel, and boat ramps for three years without fail.
Commercial kayak carts cost between $80 and $300, but you can build your own for $15 to $75 depending on the wheels you choose.
In this guide, I'll show you exactly how to build three different DIY kayak cart designs, from a basic $35 PVC version to specialized beach and folding models.
Quick Project Overview
Quick Answer: Building a DIY kayak cart takes 1-2 hours and costs $15-75 using basic tools and materials from any hardware store.
⚠️ Important: This project requires basic DIY skills and a few common tools. No welding or advanced skills needed.
| Project Aspect | Details |
|---|---|
| Total Time | 1-2 hours |
| Skill Level | Beginner to Intermediate |
| Cost Range | $15-75 (vs $80-300 commercial) |
| Weight Capacity | Up to 150 lbs |
Materials Needed for Your DIY Kayak Cart
Quick Answer: You'll need PVC pipe, T-fittings, wheels, threaded rod for the axle, and pool noodles for padding - total cost around $35 at most hardware stores.
I've built five different carts over the years, and this materials list creates the most reliable design.
Essential Materials
- PVC Pipe (1" diameter): 10 feet total - costs about $8
- PVC T-Fittings (1"): 4 pieces - $2 each
- PVC End Caps (1"): 2 pieces - $1 each
- Threaded Rod (3/8" stainless): 18 inches - $6
- Lock Nuts and Washers: 8 sets - $4 total
- Wheels (10" pneumatic): 2 wheels - $8-40 depending on type
- Pool Noodles: 2 noodles - $2 each at dollar store
- Bungee Cords: 2 heavy-duty - $5
Alternative Materials for Different Budgets
| Component | Budget Option | Premium Option |
|---|---|---|
| Wheels | Harbor Freight 10" ($8/pair) | WheelEez beach wheels ($120/pair) |
| Frame | PVC pipe ($8) | Aluminum tubing ($30) |
| Padding | Pool noodles ($4) | Marine foam ($20) |
Tools You'll Need
Quick Answer: A PVC pipe cutter or hacksaw, drill with 3/8" bit, tape measure, and marker are the only essential tools needed.
Essential Tools
- PVC Pipe Cutter: Makes clean cuts (or use hacksaw)
- Drill with Bits: Need 3/8" bit for axle holes
- Tape Measure: For accurate measurements
- Marker: To mark cut lines
- File or Sandpaper: To smooth cut edges
Optional But Helpful Tools
- Miter Box: Ensures straight cuts with hacksaw
- PVC Cement: Makes joints permanent (not required)
- Center Punch: Helps start drill holes accurately
- Safety Glasses: Always recommended when cutting or drilling
Step-by-Step Build Instructions
Quick Answer: The build process involves cutting PVC to size, assembling the frame, creating an axle housing, installing wheels, and adding padding - taking about 90 minutes total.
After helping twelve friends build their own carts, I've refined this process to eliminate common mistakes.
Step 1: Cut the PVC Pieces
Start by cutting your PVC pipe to these exact measurements.
The frame width should match your kayak's widest point minus 2 inches.
✅ Pro Tip: Cut all pieces at once and label them with masking tape to avoid confusion during assembly.
Cut List for Standard Cart
- Main crossbar: 1 piece at 24 inches
- Side supports: 2 pieces at 12 inches
- Axle housing: 2 pieces at 8 inches
- Vertical connectors: 4 pieces at 3 inches
Use a PVC cutter for clean cuts, or a hacksaw with a miter box.
File or sand the cut edges to remove burrs - this prevents the padding from tearing later.
Step 2: Dry Fit the Frame
Before any permanent connections, assemble everything without cement.
This step saved me from rebuilding my first cart when I realized the width was wrong.
- Connect the main crossbar: Insert into center of two T-fittings
- Add side supports: Insert 12-inch pieces into outer T-fitting openings
- Attach vertical connectors: Insert 3-inch pieces pointing down
- Test fit on kayak: Place under hull to check width
Adjust the crossbar length if needed - it should cradle your kayak snugly.
Step 3: Create the Axle Housing
The axle housing holds your threaded rod and allows the wheels to spin freely.
This is the most critical step for a smooth-rolling cart.
Take your two 8-inch PVC pieces and drill a 3/8" hole through both sides, exactly 1 inch from the end.
⏰ Time Saver: Clamp both pieces together and drill through both at once for perfectly aligned holes.
Insert these pieces into the bottom T-fittings as the axle housing.
The holes must align perfectly for the threaded rod to pass through smoothly.
Step 4: Install the Threaded Rod Axle
Thread the stainless steel rod through both axle housings.
This creates the axle that your wheels will mount to.
- Insert the rod: Push through both drilled holes
- Center it: Equal length should extend from each side
- Add washers and nuts: Place washer, then nut on each side of PVC
- Tighten securely: But don't overtighten and crack the PVC
The rod should spin freely when you're done.
If it binds, your holes might not be perfectly aligned - re-drill if necessary.
Step 5: Attach the Wheels
Mount your wheels to the extending threaded rod on each side.
I learned the hard way that wheel quality makes a huge difference on sand.
For standard 10-inch pneumatic wheels with bearings:
- Slide wheel onto rod: The bearing should fit the 3/8" rod
- Add outer washer: Prevents wheel from rubbing the nut
- Thread on lock nut: Tighten until wheel spins freely but has no wobble
- Test spin: Each wheel should rotate smoothly
For wheels without bearings, add extra washers as spacers to reduce friction.
Step 6: Add Padding and Protection
Pool noodles protect your kayak's hull from scratches and provide grip.
Split the pool noodles lengthwise with a utility knife.
Wrap them around the main crossbar and side supports where they'll contact your kayak.
⚠️ Important: Secure noodles with zip ties every 6 inches to prevent sliding during use.
Add bungee cord attachment points by drilling small holes in the frame ends.
Thread bungee cords through these holes to secure your kayak during transport.
Popular Design Variations
Quick Answer: Beyond the basic PVC cart, popular variations include stroller conversions for zero cost, beach-specific designs with balloon tires, and folding models for easy storage.
Stroller Conversion Method
I discovered this method when my neighbor threw out a jogging stroller.
Remove the fabric seat and handlebar, keeping just the wheel assembly.
Most strollers already have the perfect width and sturdy wheels for kayak transport.
Beach-Specific Design
For sand, upgrade to balloon tires or WheelEez wheels.
These wide, low-pressure tires float over soft sand instead of digging in.
Worth the extra $40 if you launch from beaches regularly.
Folding Cart Design
Add hinges at the connection points to create a cart that folds flat.
Uses the same materials but adds $15 in hardware.
Perfect for kayakers with limited storage space.
Heavy-Duty Version
For tandem kayaks or heavy fishing rigs over 100 pounds.
Use 1.5-inch PVC, larger wheels, and a 1/2-inch threaded rod.
Costs about $20 more but handles up to 200 pounds.
Pro Tips and Troubleshooting
Quick Answer: Common issues include wheels binding, cart twisting, and kayak sliding off - all easily fixed with proper assembly and the right adjustments.
Preventing Common Mistakes
After watching friends struggle, I've identified these critical mistakes to avoid.
- Wheels too close together: Causes instability - keep them at kayak width
- Using regular nuts: They loosen - always use lock nuts
- Skipping the dry fit: Measure twice, cement once
- Wrong wheel choice: Hard plastic wheels sink in sand
Terrain-Specific Adjustments
Different launch sites need different setups.
For boat ramps, smaller wheels work fine and cost less.
Beach launches demand larger, wider wheels to handle soft sand.
Rocky trails benefit from pneumatic tires that absorb impacts.
Maintenance and Longevity
My first cart lasted four years with minimal maintenance.
Rinse with fresh water after saltwater exposure.
Check and tighten nuts every few months.
Replace pool noodles annually - they're only $2 each.
Upgrade Options
Start basic and upgrade as needed.
Add a kickstand using an extra T-fitting and PVC piece.
Install a handle extension for taller users.
Create a storage bag attachment for gear transport.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it really cost to build a DIY kayak cart?
A basic PVC kayak cart costs $15-35 with Harbor Freight wheels. Premium versions with beach wheels run $75-150, still half the price of commercial carts.
How long does it take to build a kayak cart?
First-time builders typically finish in 90-120 minutes. With experience, you can complete one in under an hour.
What size PVC pipe works best for a kayak cart?
One-inch diameter Schedule 40 PVC handles most kayaks up to 100 pounds. For heavier kayaks, use 1.5-inch PVC.
Can I build a kayak cart without power tools?
Yes, you only need a hacksaw and hand drill. A PVC cutter makes cleaner cuts but isn't essential.
Will a DIY cart damage my kayak?
Not with proper padding. Pool noodles or pipe insulation protect the hull completely when installed correctly.
Start Building Your Cart Today
Building your own kayak cart saves $100-250 and gives you a custom solution for your specific needs.
The basic PVC design takes less than two hours and uses tools you probably already own.
For more kayaking tips, check out our guide on how to use a kayak cart properly once you've built yours.
If you decide DIY isn't for you, see our reviews of the best kayak carts available commercially.
Remember: start with the basic design and upgrade as you learn what works for your kayaking style.