How to Attach Accessories to Your Kayak: The Complete Installation Guide

Last Saturday on Lake Travis, I watched a guy lose his brand-new fish finder - and the monster bass that just hit his line. The culprit? A poorly mounted accessory that couldn't handle the sudden movement when he set the hook. That expensive electronics package went straight to the bottom, followed by some choice words I won't repeat here.

After 15 years of rigging kayaks and learning from my own mounting mistakes (like the time my rod holder came loose and dumped my favorite setup in 30 feet of water), I've mastered every method for attaching gear to a kayak. Whether you're mounting your first rod holder or building out a fully-rigged fishing machine, this guide covers all the ways to attach accessories on kayaks - from simple clamp-on solutions to permanent installations.

Quick Overview: 6 Ways to Mount Kayak Accessories

Before we dive into the details, here's what we'll cover:

1. Gear Tracks - The most versatile mounting system
2. Deck Mounts - Permanent bases for heavy-duty accessories
3. Flush Mounts - Clean, integrated installations
4. Inflatable Kayak Mounts - Special solutions for soft-sided boats
5. Suction Mounts - Temporary, no-drill options
6. Clamp Mounts - Quick-attach solutions for sit-inside kayaks

Understanding Your Mounting Options

The key to successful kayak accessory mounting isn't just knowing how to install them - it's understanding which method works best for your specific needs. I learned this after drilling unnecessary holes in my first kayak when gear tracks would have been the better choice.

1. Gear Tracks: The Swiss Army Knife of Mounting Systems

Gear tracks have revolutionized how we mount kayak accessories. These aluminum or composite rails accept T-bolt attachments, letting you slide accessories anywhere along the track and lock them in place with a simple twist.

Perfect for:

• Anglers who frequently change setups
• Multiple accessories in limited space
• Anyone who wants flexibility without drilling

Installation Process:

First, determine where you need the track. I typically install them along the gunwales for rod holders and electronics. Mark your mounting points - most tracks need screws every 6-8 inches.

When drilling pilot holes, use a bit slightly smaller than your screws. Apply marine sealant (I swear by 3M 4200) under the track before securing. The beauty of gear tracks is that once installed, you'll never need to drill another hole in that area.

Pro tip: Install tracks slightly longer than you think you need. I added an extra 6 inches to mine last year and now use that space for a cup holder that keeps my coffee secure even in choppy water.

Gear Track Compatibility:

Most track accessories work across brands, but always check the T-bolt size. Standard sizes are usually compatible between YakAttack, Scotty, and RAM Mounts. This universality means you can mix and match to create your perfect setup.

2. Deck Mounts: Built for Heavy-Duty Applications

Deck mounts provide the strongest connection for accessories that take abuse - think downriggers, heavy rod holders, or trolling setups. These permanent bases bolt through your deck with backing plates for maximum strength.

Installation Steps:

1. Position carefully - Sit in your kayak and simulate using the accessory
2. Mark mounting holes - Use the base as a template
3. Drill pilot holes - Go slow to avoid cracking
4. Install backing plate - This distributes load inside the hull
5. Apply sealant - Liberal amounts prevent leaks
6. Bolt in place - Tighten until sealant squeezes out, then back off slightly

I've installed dozens of deck mounts, and the biggest mistake people make is over-tightening. You want firm contact, not crushed plastic. The sealant does the waterproofing work, not extreme pressure.

Brand Considerations:

Unlike gear tracks, deck mount accessories typically stay within brand families. Scotty accessories work with Scotty bases, RAM with RAM bases. Plan your system accordingly.

3. Flush Mounts: The Clean Installation

Flush mounts sit within your hull rather than on top, offering the cleanest look and strongest hold for permanent accessories. They're perfect for rod holders but require confidence with power tools.

Detailed Installation Guide:

Installing flush mounts intimidated me for years until I learned the right technique. Here's my proven method:

Tools needed:

• 2.25" hole saw (for standard flush mount rod holders)
• Drill with variable speed
• Marine sealant
• Stainless steel screws
• Sandpaper

Step-by-step process:

Mark your center point and double-check the angle. I use a piece of 1.5" PVC cut at 30 degrees as a visual guide. This shows exactly how your rod will sit.

When using the hole saw, start slow and let the tool do the work. Apply steady pressure but don't force it - polyethylene cuts differently than wood. Once through, test fit before applying sealant.

The key to waterproofing flush mounts is proper sealing. Run a thick bead of sealant around the rim, insert the holder, and rotate to spread evenly. Install screws loosely first, then tighten in a cross pattern until sealant oozes out evenly.

Bottom line: Flush mounts look professional but commit you to that location forever. Measure twice, cut once, and consider starting with removable options to test positions before going permanent.

4. Mounting on Inflatable Kayaks: Special Considerations

Inflatable kayaks require completely different mounting strategies since drilling is obviously not an option. Having rigged several inflatable fishing kayaks, I've found these methods work best:

Adhesive mounts:

• Clean surface with alcohol first
• Use marine-grade adhesive patches
• Allow full cure time (usually 24-48 hours)
• Test in controlled conditions first

D-ring attachments:

• Many inflatables come with D-rings
• Use these for lightweight accessories
• Add carabiners for quick removal

Frame systems:

• Some companies make frames that cradle inflatable kayaks
• These accept standard mounts without adhesive
• More expensive but most versatile option

5. Suction Mounts: The Temporary Solution

Suction mounts work great for cameras, phones, and other lightweight accessories you don't want permanently attached. After losing a GoPro to a weak suction cup, I've learned what makes them reliable.

Making suction mounts work:

• Clean both surfaces thoroughly
• Slightly wet the cup for better seal
• Test the hold before trusting expensive gear
• Replace cups showing any wear
• Avoid use in cold weather (rubber gets stiff)

Best uses:

• Action cameras for temporary filming
• Phone mounts for GPS navigation
• Safety flag mounts on rental kayaks
• Testing accessory positions before permanent installation

6. Clamp Mounts: Quick and Versatile

Clamp mounts shine on sit-inside kayaks where the cockpit rim provides a perfect attachment point. They're my go-to for photography since I can reposition quickly for different angles.

Optimal clamp placement:

• Cockpit rim (most secure)
• Seat frame (if sturdy enough)
• Existing deck rigging
• Factory grab handles

Installation tips:

• Pad contact points to prevent scratches
• Check tightness regularly - vibration loosens clamps
• Consider safety tethers for valuable accessories

Specific Kayak Fishing Rod Mount Instructions

Since rod holders are the most common kayak modification, let's dive deep into installation specifics.

Choosing Rod Holder Locations

The biggest mistake I see is poor rod holder placement. Before drilling anything, sit in your kayak and practice the motions of:

• Setting the hook
• Fighting a fish
• Reaching for your rod
• Paddling with rods in place

For trolling, I mount holders ahead of my seat at 45-degree angles. This keeps lines separated and rods visible. Behind-the-seat holders work for storage but make hooksets awkward.

Step-by-Step Flush Mount Rod Holder Installation

Having installed over 50 flush mount rod holders, here's my bulletproof process:

1. Planning and measurement

• Use cardboard templates to visualize placement
• Check interior clearance - nothing worse than drilling into a foam block
• Consider paddle stroke clearance

2. Drilling the main hole

• Start with a pilot hole to ensure accuracy
• Use hole saw at slow speed with light pressure
• Keep the saw perpendicular to avoid oval holes
• Save the cutout - you'll need it

3. Waterproofing the bottom

• That plastic disc you just cut out? It's your bottom cap
• Sand it smooth and glue inside the tube with marine adhesive
• This prevents water intrusion and provides a base for rods

4. Final installation

• Dry fit and mark screw holes with holder at desired angle
• Remove and drill pilot holes
• Apply sealant liberally - think frosting a cake
• Insert holder and turn to spread sealant
• Install screws and tighten until sealant oozes evenly
• Clean excess immediately with mineral spirits

Track-Mounted Rod Holders

For maximum flexibility, track-mounted holders rule. After trying various brands, I've found the YakAttack Zooka Tube offers the best adjustability.

Installation process:

1. Slide T-bolt into track
2. Position where needed
3. Tighten knob until secure
4. Adjust angle as desired

Pro tip: Track-mounted holders on the port side can loosen when fighting fish due to the torque direction. Add a drop of blue Loctite to the threads for extra security.

Essential Gear for Accessory Installation

Through trial and error (mostly error), I've assembled the perfect kayak rigging toolkit:

Must-have tools:

• Variable-speed drill
• Hole saw set (1.5", 2", 2.25")
• Marine sealant (3M 4200 or 5200)
• Stainless steel hardware
• Backing plates or large washers
• Rivet gun (for permanent installations)
• Heat gun (for warming plastic before drilling)

Safety gear:

• Safety glasses (plastic shavings fly everywhere)
• Dust mask (polyethylene dust irritates lungs)
• Work gloves
• First aid kit (just in case)

Common Mounting Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Over-tightening Hardware

Crushed plastic can't be fixed. Tighten until snug, then stop. Let the sealant do its job.

Poor Planning

That perfectly placed rod holder might block your paddle stroke. Always test positions before drilling.

Wrong Sealant Choice

Silicone seems easier but doesn't bond well to polyethylene. Use proper marine sealant for permanent installations.

Ignoring Weight Distribution

Loading all accessories on one side affects stability. I learned this carrying three rod holders, fish finder, and tackle box all to starboard - nearly flipped reaching for a lure.

Drill Bit Too Large

Pilot holes should be smaller than screws for good bite. Too large and screws strip out under load.

Advanced Mounting Techniques

After mastering basics, these advanced techniques expand your options:

Combining Mount Types

I use tracks as a foundation, then add RAM ball mounts for ultimate adjustability. This combo lets me position fish finders perfectly regardless of sun angle.

Custom Backing Plates

For heavy-duty applications, I make custom backing plates from HDPE cutting board material. Larger surface area distributes loads better than standard washers.

Modular Systems

Design your setup to be modular. My milk crate system connects via track mounts, letting me switch between fishing and photography setups in minutes.

Maintaining Your Mounted Accessories

Proper maintenance extends the life of mounts and prevents failures:

Regular checks:

• Tighten hardware monthly
• Inspect sealant for cracks
• Clean tracks of sand and debris
• Lubricate moving parts with silicone spray

Seasonal maintenance:

• Remove and clean all track accessories
• Check backing plates for corrosion
• Reseal any suspect areas
• Replace worn suction cups

Choosing the Right Mount for Your Needs

Here's my quick decision guide based on thousands of hours on the water:

Use gear tracks when:

• You change setups frequently
• Flexibility matters more than strength
• You're not sure about permanent placement

Choose deck mounts for:

• Heavy accessories like downriggers
• Permanent installations
• Maximum strength requirements

Go with flush mounts when:

• Clean appearance matters
• You want the strongest possible hold
• Position is permanently decided

Select clamp mounts if:

• Using a rental or borrowed kayak
• Sit-inside kayak with good rim access
• Quick repositioning is needed

Safety Considerations

Improperly mounted accessories can be dangerous. Follow these safety rules:

• Always use backing plates or washers to distribute load
• Check mounts before each trip
• Use safety tethers on valuable accessories
• Avoid mounting anything that could impale you in a flip
• Keep emergency gear accessible regardless of other mounts

Specific Accessory Mounting Tips

Fish Finders

Mount displays at eye level when seated. Run transducer cables through deck plates or scupper holes to keep clean. I protect connections with dielectric grease and heat shrink.

Cameras

Use RAM mounts for adjustability. Position to avoid paddle interference. Always use safety tethers - I've seen too many GoPros become artificial reefs.

Tackle Storage

Track-mount tackle boxes behind your seat for easy access. Ensure they don't interfere with re-entry if you flip.

Safety Gear

Mount throw bags and first aid kits where you can reach them inverted. Practice accessing them with eyes closed.

Kayak-Specific Considerations

Different kayak styles need different approaches:

Sit-on-top kayaks:

• Most mounting options available
• Check hull thickness before drilling
• Use scupper holes for cable management

Sit-inside kayaks:

• Limited deck space requires careful planning
• Clamp mounts often work best
• Consider cockpit organization systems

Fishing kayaks:

• Usually come with some tracks installed
• Plan around existing features
• Don't duplicate what's already there

The Evolution of Kayak Mounting Systems

The kayak accessory mounting landscape has transformed dramatically. When I started, we had two choices: drill holes or don't add accessories. Now, the latest track systems and modular mounts let us customize without commitment.

Planning Your Ultimate Setup

Start simple and build gradually. My first setup was just two rod holders. Now I run:

• Four rod holders (two fixed, two adjustable)
• Fish finder with transducer
• GoPro mount
• Tackle storage system
• Anchor trolley
• Safety gear mounts

Each addition solved a specific problem I encountered. Let your needs drive your modifications.

Budget-Friendly Mounting Solutions

Quality mounts aren't cheap, but these tips stretch your dollar:

• Buy track in bulk and cut to size
• Make your own backing plates
• Start with used accessories and upgrade mounts
• Join kayak fishing forums for deals
• Consider DIY options for simple accessories

Environmental Considerations

Responsible mounting means:

• Catching all plastic shavings
• Using reef-safe sealants
• Properly disposing of old accessories
• Avoiding mounts that could snag wildlife
• Keeping our waterways clean

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Leaking mounts: Remove, clean thoroughly, and reseal with fresh sealant. Don't just add more on top.

Loose track accessories: Check T-bolt wear. Replace if rounded. Add spring washers for vibration resistance.

Cracked mounting areas: Stop use immediately. Reinforce with backing plates or consider professional repair.

Future-Proofing Your Setup

Mount with tomorrow in mind:

• Install longer tracks than currently needed
• Leave space for future accessories
• Document your modifications with photos
• Keep extra hardware for field repairs
• Plan for accessory upgrades

FAQ Section

Can I drill into any kayak?

Not all kayaks are suitable for drilling. Rotomolded polyethylene kayaks handle drilling well, but check thickness first. Thermoformed and composite kayaks require special techniques. Never drill into inflatable kayaks.

What's the best sealant for kayak mounting?

3M 4200 Marine Sealant works best for most applications. It's strong, flexible, and removable if needed. Use 5200 for permanent installations you'll never remove.

How many accessories can I safely mount?

There's no hard limit, but consider weight distribution and paddle clearance. I've seen kayaks with 20+ accessories that paddle fine and others with 5 that handle poorly.

Do I need backing plates for all mounts?

Use backing plates for any mount that could experience significant force - rod holders, cleats, handles. Small accessories like cup holders might only need washers.

Can I remove gear tracks once installed?

Yes, but you'll have screw holes to seal. Remove carefully, clean thoroughly, and fill holes with marine sealant or plastic welding.

What's the strongest mounting method?

Properly installed flush mounts provide maximum strength, followed by deck mounts with full backing plates. Track mounts offer good strength with flexibility.

Should I hire someone to install mounts?

If you're uncomfortable with power tools or your kayak is expensive, professional installation makes sense. Many kayak shops offer rigging services.

How do I run wires for electronics?

Route cables through scupper holes, install deck plates, or use cable glands. Protect connections with heat shrink and dielectric grease.

Can I move accessories between kayaks?

Track-mounted and clamp accessories transfer easily. Permanent mounts require new installation on each kayak.

What if I crack my kayak while drilling?

Stop immediately and assess damage. Small cracks can be plastic welded. Large cracks might require professional repair or could compromise hull integrity.

Do mounted accessories affect kayak performance?

Yes, accessories add weight and wind resistance. Position heavy items low and centered. Remove unnecessary accessories for long paddles.

How often should I check mount tightness?

Check all mounts before each trip. Do thorough inspection monthly. Replace any corroded hardware immediately.

Final Thoughts

After rigging hundreds of kayaks, I've learned that the best mounting system is the one that serves your specific needs. Start with non-permanent options to find what works, then commit to permanent installations once you're certain.

The key to successful kayak accessory mounting isn't just following instructions - it's understanding why each method works and choosing the right one for your situation. Whether you're adding your first rod holder or building a complete fishing command center, take your time, measure carefully, and always prioritize safety over convenience.

Remember, every hole you drill is permanent, but the memories you'll make with properly mounted accessories last even longer. See you on the water - I'll be the one with way too many rod holders and a coffee cup that never spills!