Can You Drill Holes Into A Kayak? Complete DIY Guide for 2025

By: Dave Samuel

Updated On: August 3, 2025

Last month at Lake Travis, I watched a guy turn his $1,500 fishing kayak into Swiss cheese. He'd gone drill-happy installing every accessory imaginable – rod holders, fish finder mount, anchor trolley, the works. By the time he hit the water, his kayak was taking on more water than the Titanic. The kicker? He'd drilled three holes below the waterline.

After 20 years of rigging kayaks and helping countless paddlers at our local shop, I've seen every possible drilling disaster. But here's the truth: yes, you can absolutely drill holes into a kayak – when you know what you're doing. I've personally drilled hundreds of holes in dozens of kayaks without a single leak or structural failure.

Whether you're mounting your first rod holder or planning a full fishing kayak transformation, this guide covers everything I've learned about drilling holes in kayaks the right way. From choosing the right drill bit to sealing holes properly, I'll show you exactly how to modify your kayak without turning it into an expensive pool toy.

Is It Safe to Drill Into Your Kayak?

Short answer: Yes, but location matters more than anything else.

I learned this lesson the expensive way on my first kayak back in 2004. Eager to install a fancy new fish finder, I drilled straight through the hull below where the transducer would sit. Made perfect sense to my newbie brain – shortest cable run, right? Wrong. That "minor" leak turned into a major headache that eventually required professional repair.

Here's what makes drilling safe:

Above the Waterline = Green Light Any mounting point that sits above your kayak's loaded waterline is fair game. This includes:

Deck areas
Gunwales (the upper edges)
Cockpit rim on sit-insides
Tank well areas
Most of the upper hull on sit-on-tops

The Danger Zones Never drill in these areas unless you really know what you're doing:

Hull bottom
Below the scupper holes on sit-on-tops
Anywhere that sits underwater when loaded
Structural bulkheads (the walls inside your kayak)

Material Matters Different kayak materials handle drilling differently:

Polyethylene (most common): Drills easily, very forgiving
Fiberglass: Requires special bits, can crack if rushed
Thermoformed ABS: Similar to poly but more brittle
Inflatable: Just... don't

One more thing – check your warranty. Some manufacturers void coverage if you drill holes, while others (like Native Watercraft) actually design their kayaks expecting modifications. When in doubt, shoot them an email first.

Why Kayakers Drill Holes: Essential Modifications

After helping hundreds of paddlers customize their kayaks, I've noticed most drilling falls into a few categories. Here's what drives people to pick up that drill:

Fishing Setup Essentials

The number one reason? Fishing accessories. My own fishing kayak has 14 drilled mounting points, each serving a specific purpose:

Rod holders (4-6 holes each)
Fish finder transducer mount (2-4 holes)
Anchor trolley system (6-8 holes)
Tackle box mounts (4 holes)

Gear Tracks: One-Time Drilling, Endless Options

This is where drilling holes in a kayak gets smart. Install a gear track with 4-8 holes, and you've created infinite mounting points without Swiss-cheesing your hull. I've installed YakAttack GearTrac on five different kayaks – same holes work for cameras, rod holders, cup holders, whatever you dream up.

Safety and Navigation Gear

Don't overlook these critical additions:

Flag pole mounts for visibility
Compass mounting points
Safety light brackets
Bilge pump holders

Comfort Upgrades

Long paddle days demand comfort:

Upgraded seat mounting points
Foot brace adjustments
Back band anchors
Thigh brace installations

Storage Solutions

Because you can never have enough storage:

Deck bungee anchors
Mesh bag attachment points
Dry box tie-downs
Paddle keeper clips

Pro tip: Before drilling anything, spend a day on the water with everything temporarily attached using suction cups or clamps. You'll quickly learn what placement works and what doesn't. Trust me, drilling holes in the wrong spot is way worse than waiting to get it right.

Types of Hardware for Mounting

Choosing the right hardware is like picking the right paddle – get it wrong and you'll regret it every time you're on the water. Here's what actually works:

Stainless Steel Screws with Backing Nuts

My go-to for 90% of installations. Last summer, I helped a buddy mount a trolling motor on his Old Town kayak using 1/4-20 stainless bolts with nylock nuts. Two years later, still rock solid.

When to use: Any mount you can access from both sides What you need:

316 stainless steel (not 304 – it'll rust)
Nylon lock nuts
Fender washers for load distribution
Marine sealant (more on this later)

Self-Tapping Screws

These are the workhorses for sit-on-top modifications where you can't reach the backside. Just installed a set of YakAttack Screwballs on my neighbor's Pescador – no backing needed, holds like a dream.

Best practices:

Use thread-forming (not thread-cutting) for plastic kayaks
Slightly undersize your pilot hole
Don't overtighten – snug plus 1/4 turn max
Always use marine sealant

Well Nuts (Rubber Expansion Nuts)

These ingenious fasteners expand behind the material when tightened. Perfect for mounting fish finders where you need a clean, removable installation.

The truth about well nuts:

Great for light-duty applications
Not for high-stress mounts
Need precisely sized holes
Can fail in extreme temperatures

Pop Rivets: Proceed with Caution

I'll be honest – I rarely use rivets anymore. They're permanent, can work loose, and removing them usually damages your kayak. But for some factory-style installations, they're the right choice.

Rivet reality check:

Only use backing plates
Aluminum rivets for freshwater only
Stainless for any saltwater use
Consider well nuts instead

Marine-Grade Adhesive Mounts

For lightweight accessories, sometimes drilling isn't necessary. 3M VHB tape and Marine Goop have saved many kayaks from unnecessary holes.

What works with adhesive:

Small electronics mounts
Deck eyes
Paddle clips
Light holders

Remember: cheap hardware is expensive when it fails 5 miles from shore. I learned this lesson when a corroded screw dropped my brand-new Garmin into 30 feet of water. Stainless steel costs more upfront but saves money (and gear) long-term.

Complete Step-by-Step Drilling Guide

Time to get down to business. I've refined this process over hundreds of installations, including plenty of my own mistakes. Follow these steps and you'll drill clean, leak-free holes every time.

Gather Your Tools and Materials

Before you make that first hole, get everything ready. Nothing worse than discovering you're missing something mid-project.

Essential tools:

Variable speed drill (cordless works great)
Drill bits (1/8" pilot, plus final size)
Center punch or nail
Tape measure
Sharpie marker
Masking tape
Safety glasses (plastic shavings in the eye hurt)

Materials you'll need:

Your mounting hardware
Marine sealant (Marine Goop or 3M 4200)
Rubbing alcohol
Clean rags
Backing plates if needed

Plan Your Mounting Location

This is where most people mess up. I once watched a guy drill rod holder holes so close together they overlapped. Don't be that guy.

Location checklist:

Will it interfere with paddling?
Can you reach it while seated?
Is it above the waterline?
Will it hit anything when transported?
Does it leave room for other accessories?

Pro move: Cut cardboard templates of your accessories and tape them in place. Paddle around your yard (yes, really) to test positions. I've prevented countless bad placements this way.

Marking and Pilot Holes

Precision here saves headaches later.

Clean the area with rubbing alcohol
Place masking tape over drill area (prevents wandering)
Mark exact centers with Sharpie
Center punch each mark (critical for clean starts)
Drill pilot holes at slow speed with 1/8" bit

Drilling the Final Holes

The moment of truth. Here's how to not screw it up:

Step up bit sizes gradually (1/8" → 3/16" → final size)
Keep drill perpendicular to surface
Let the drill do the work – no pushing
Clear shavings frequently
Deburr holes with sandpaper

Polyethylene kayaks: Use high speed, light pressure Fiberglass: Slower speed, watch for cracks Thermoform: Medium speed, very light pressure

Sealing and Waterproofing

This is what separates a professional installation from an amateur hour leak-fest.

My proven sealing process:

Clean holes with alcohol again
Apply sealant to screw threads
Add sealant under mounting base
Install hardware finger-tight first
Tighten gradually until sealant squeezes out
Clean excess immediately
Let cure 24 hours before water exposure

I prefer Marine Goop for most applications. It stays flexible, bonds to polyethylene, and actually gets stronger underwater. Skip the silicone – nothing sticks to it later if you need repairs.

Common Drilling Mistakes to Avoid

Learn from my failures:

Drilling too fast = melted plastic mess
Wrong angle = oval holes that leak
Skipping pilot holes = wandering bits
Over-tightening = cracked plastic
Wrong sealant = future leaks

Remember: You can always drill a hole bigger, but you can't make it smaller. Start conservative.

Sealing Holes in Your Kayak: Products and Techniques

Let's talk about keeping water out. I've tested every sealant on the market, from hardware store silicone to aerospace adhesives. Here's what actually works:

Marine Goop: The Gold Standard

After sealing holes in kayaks for two decades, Marine Goop remains my top choice. Last season, I used it to seal 12 mounting points on my Jackson Cuda – still bone dry after 100+ trips.

Why Goop works:

Bonds to polyethylene (most sealants don't)
Stays flexible in all temperatures
Actually stronger after water exposure
Removable if needed (with effort)
Clear formula won't show mistakes

Application tips:

Work at 60-80°F for best results
Apply thin layer to both surfaces
Don't glob it on – waste of product
48-hour full cure time
One tube does dozens of holes

3M 4200: The Alternative

When Goop isn't available, 3M 4200 is my backup. Slightly less adhesion to poly but excellent sealing properties.

Best uses:

Fiberglass kayaks
Below-waterline applications
Permanent installations
High-stress mounting points

What NOT to Use?

Save yourself the headache:

Silicone caulk: Nothing sticks to it later
5200: Too permanent for kayaks
Plumber's putty: Washes out
Hot glue: Are you serious?
Duct tape: Just... no

Fixing Unwanted or Leaking Holes

Made a mistake? Join the club. Here's how to fix it:

Small holes (under 1/4"):

Clean thoroughly with alcohol
Rough up with sandpaper
Fill with Marine Goop
Smooth with popsicle stick
Let cure completely

Larger holes:

Use stainless pan head bolt with rubber washer
Apply sealant liberally
Tighten until rubber compresses
Trim excess bolt length

Nuclear option for big mistakes:

Plastic welding (polyethylene only)
G/flex epoxy for fiberglass
Professional repair for valuable kayaks

True story: I once drilled a fish finder mount in completely the wrong spot. Fixed it with a stainless bolt and rubber washer combo that's held for 5 years. Now I call it my "spare drain plug."

Kayak-Specific Considerations

Not all kayaks are created equal when it comes to modifications. Here's what you need to know about your specific ride:

Sit-on-Top vs Sit-Inside

Sit-on-Tops: The Modder's Dream

Sealed hull = more forgiving of mistakes
Better access for fishing mods
Scupper holes provide reference points
Tank well perfect for milk crate setups

My Wilderness Systems Tarpon has 22 drilled modifications. Still floats like day one.

Sit-Insides: Proceed Carefully

Limited access to hull interior
Cockpit modifications need paddle clearance
Bulkhead locations are critical
Consider deck-only modifications

Understanding Your Kayak's Construction

Rotomolded Polyethylene (Most Common)

Drilling is straightforward
Self-heals minor chips
Thickness varies (3/16" to 1/2")
Double-wall areas are strongest

Thermoformed ABS

More brittle than poly
Requires sharper bits
Can crack if overheated
Pre-drill all holes

Composite (Fiberglass/Carbon)

Needs special drill bits
Gel coat can chip
Consider professional installation
Much less forgiving of mistakes

Weight Capacity and Balance

Every modification affects performance. My first kayak weight disaster taught me this lesson.

Consider total weight:

Trolling motor + battery = 30-40 lbs
Full electronics = 10-15 lbs
Fishing gear = 20-30 lbs
Milk crate setup = 15-20 lbs

Balance is crucial:

Keep heavy items low and centered
Distribute weight front-to-back
Test stability before heading out
Adjust seat position if needed

Popular Models and Their Quirks

Hobie Pro Angler: Pre-drilled for most accessories, thick hull handles anything

Old Town Topwater: Thin deck areas need backing plates, great track mounting surfaces

Perception Pescador: Excellent for mods but watch the thin spots near handles

Wilderness Systems Ride: Double-wall construction perfect for heavy accessories

Jackson Coosa: Designed for customization, just avoid the interior foam areas

Essential Accessories Worth Drilling For

After years of helping paddlers customize their kayaks, certain modifications prove their worth every time. Here's what's actually worth putting holes in your hull:

Gear Tracks: Maximum Flexibility

Best investment you'll make. Four to eight holes give you endless mounting options. I run 24" YakAttack GearTrac sections on both sides of my kayak.

Installation tips:

Use backing plates for tracks over 12"
Pre-load tracks with t-bolts before mounting
Leave 6" minimum between tracks
Consider GT Cleat XL for quick adjustments

Rod Holders That Actually Work

Forget those clamp-on jokes. Properly mounted flush rod holders transform your fishing experience.

Proven options:

Scotty #241 for adjustability
YakAttack Zooka tubes for spinning rods
Flush mounts for trolling
RAM tube holders for heavy gear

Check out our complete guide to kayak fishing accessories for more options.

Electronics Mounting

Your fish finder is useless if you can't see it or it falls off mid-trip.

Smart mounting:

RAM 1.5" ball system for adjustability
Dedicated transducer mount (not suction cup)
Power cable management tracks
Waterproof switch panel location

Safety Gear Mounting Points

Because swimming back to shore sucks:

Flag pole mount (required in many states)
Bilge pump holder
Knife mount within easy reach
Whistle/horn attachment point
Light mounting for night fishing

Storage Solutions

You can never have too much organized storage:

Milk crate attachment points (4 minimum)
Tackle box rails
Dry bag D-rings
Bungee cord anchors
Net holder clips

DIY vs Professional Installation

Sometimes it pays to call in the pros. Here's how to decide:

When DIY Makes Sense?

You should drill it yourself when:

Installing basic accessories
Working with polyethylene kayaks
Mounting above waterline only
You have proper tools
Time isn't critical

Cost breakdown for DIY:

Drill and bits: $50-100
Marine sealant: $15
Basic hardware: $20-40
Your time: Priceless
Total: $85-155

When to Go Professional?

Call the pros for:

Expensive kayaks (over $2,000)
Composite construction
Major modifications
Warranty concerns
Complex electronics

What pros charge:

Basic accessory install: $25-50 per item
Full fishing setup: $200-400
Electronics package: $300-500
Custom work: $75-100/hour

Finding Qualified Installers

Not all "pros" are created equal:

Check local kayak shops first
Ask for installation photos
Verify insurance coverage
Get quotes in writing
Ask about warranty

Red flags: Anyone who doesn't mention sealant, suggests inappropriate hardware, or can't explain their process.

Maintaining Your Modifications

Drilling holes is just the beginning. Proper maintenance keeps everything watertight and functional.

Annual Inspection Checklist

Every spring, I spend an hour checking:

All screws for tightness
Sealant for cracks or gaps
Hardware for corrosion
Mounting plates for stress cracks
Accessories for wear

When to Re-Seal?

Signs you need fresh sealant:

Visible gaps around hardware
Slight water seepage
Sealant has hardened
Hardware feels loose
It's been 3+ years

Re-sealing process:

Remove hardware completely
Clean old sealant (acetone works)
Inspect holes for damage
Apply fresh sealant
Reinstall and re-tighten

Hardware Replacement Schedule

Even stainless steel has limits:

Freshwater use: Inspect annually, replace every 5 years
Saltwater use: Inspect every trip, replace every 2-3 years
Brackish water: Falls between the two

Safety Considerations

Let's talk about not sinking your kayak or hurting yourself:

Structural Integrity

Never drill through:

Bulkheads (the walls inside)
Scupper tubes
Drain plug areas
Seat mounting points
Handle attachment areas

Planning for Emergencies

Because Murphy's Law loves kayakers:

Keep marine sealant in your repair kit
Pack rubber stoppers for emergency plugs
Know where you drilled (take photos)
Test modifications in shallow water first
Have a backup plan

Legal Requirements

Some states have rules about modifications:

Flag poles often required by law
Light mounting for night use
Registration number placement
Capacity plate visibility

Check your local regulations before drilling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you drill holes in a polyethylene kayak?

Absolutely. Polyethylene is the most forgiving material for drilling. I've drilled hundreds of holes in poly kayaks without issues. Just use sharp bits, proper technique, and marine sealant. The material is self-healing for minor chips and very modification-friendly.

Will drilling void my kayak warranty?

Usually, yes. Most manufacturers void warranty for customer modifications. However, some brands like Native Watercraft and Jackson design their kayaks expecting customization. Always check your specific warranty terms or contact the manufacturer before drilling.

What size drill bit for kayak accessories?

Most kayak accessories use 1/4" or 5/16" hardware. Always drill pilot holes first with a 1/8" bit, then step up to your final size. The accessory instructions should specify exact requirements. When in doubt, go slightly smaller – you can always enlarge.

How do you fix a cracked screw hole in a kayak?

For minor cracks, clean the area and fill with Marine Goop, letting it cure completely. For larger cracks, use a plastic welding kit or G/flex epoxy. Worst case, drill out to the next larger size and use appropriate hardware with backing plates.

Can you mount a trolling motor without drilling?

Yes, using clamp-on mounts that attach to your gunwales or existing rod holders. Brands like Brocraft and Railblaza make no-drill motor mounts. However, drilled mounts are more stable and secure for regular use.

What's the best sealant for kayak holes?

Marine Goop wins hands-down for polyethylene kayaks. It bonds properly to plastic, stays flexible, and gets stronger underwater. 3M 4200 is my second choice. Avoid silicone – nothing adheres to it if you need repairs later.

How many accessories can I safely add?

Depends on your kayak's capacity. I've seen successful builds with 20+ accessories, but weight and balance matter more than hole count. Calculate total weight, keep heavy items low and centered, and stay under 75% of your kayak's weight capacity.

Should I drill above or below the waterline?

Always above the waterline when possible. Below-waterline drilling requires perfect sealing and significantly increases risk. Most accessories work fine mounted above the waterline. If you must go below, use backing plates and extra sealant.

Can you remove accessories and seal the holes?

Yes. Remove hardware, clean thoroughly, then fill with Marine Goop. For larger holes, use stainless steel bolts with rubber washers as permanent plugs. Small holes can be welded shut on polyethylene kayaks using a plastic welding kit.

What about inflatable or folding kayaks?

Don't drill inflatable kayaks – ever. It's a guaranteed way to ruin your boat. Folding kayaks with rigid frames might handle very limited drilling in frame areas only, but I'd strongly recommend clamp-on accessories instead.

Conclusion: Drill Smart, Paddle Happy

After two decades of drilling holes in kayaks – some successful, some learning experiences – I can tell you this: proper modifications transform a good kayak into your perfect kayak.

The key lessons to remember:

Location matters more than technique
Quality hardware and sealant prevent problems
Measure twice, drill once still applies
When in doubt, start conservative

Whether you're mounting your first rod holder or building a full electronics suite, take your time and do it right. That $15 tube of Marine Goop is a lot cheaper than a new kayak or lost gear.

My current fishing kayak has 18 drilled modifications and stays bone dry after all-day trips. Yours can too – just follow the guidelines we've covered and avoid the mistakes I've already made for you.

Now grab that drill and start customizing. The fish won't catch themselves, and that perfect accessory setup is just a few well-placed holes away.